After two years of debate and indecision and tabling the motion, the Design Committee finally had to make a choice as to which material to use for the stairs to the loft and the roof deck — concrete or steel? Whichever we chose, it had to fit into our Natural Industrial Bling design style.
Concrete would be easy. Just build form work and pour. I’ve done it a zillion times. But if we chose concrete for the stairs, we would have to tile them, and how do you squeeze Natural or Industrial or Bling out of tile? We were at a loss with concrete.
But steel. STEEL! It just screams INDUSTRIAL! And if we were to use diamond plate (also called floor plate) steel, well it just doesn’t get any better than that! Here is a photo of diamond plate (source) :
So with no experience working with this metal, and without knowing if my homemade sheet metal brake would be able to bend the stuff, and without knowing how I was going to support the staircase, I made my measurements and headed down the mountain.
For $85 per sheet, I returned with five, one-eighth-inch thick, four by eight-foot sheets of diamond plate steel. I also bought four sheets of diamond plate aluminum (also $85 per) to make shelves in the dry room. But that is another post.
Here are the sheets in the Honda. The aluminum is on top:
The first order of business was to cut the steel plate into pieces — a riser and a tread in each piece. As big as my DIY sheet metal bending brake is, it didn’t even begin to bend the eighth-inch steel. So Aramis and I talked and decided to use the angle grinder to make a groove half-way through the thickness of the plate. One “step,” consisting of a tread and a riser, looks like this before it is bent:
Here is a video of Aramis cutting the groove for easier bending:
Next we put the sheet in my homemade sheet metal brake to bend it: Cynthia shot a short video of Aramis and me bending the steel. My back was sore the next morning! I didn’t really care whether the stairs started in any particular place on the first floor. They could go a foot one way or the other. But it was important to have the stairs end up at the triangular top landing. So I decided to build the stairs from the top down. In the States, a friend used to call me “The Upside Down Carpenter,” because I frequently worked from the top down. Anyway, here the triangular landing is in place and we are installing another landing; I hold the landing while Aramis welds it into place:
Here is the underside of the triangular landing: Next we installed seven steps and another landing. Another landing? Yes. There are eighteen steps in this flight of stairs. Should someone fall on the stairs, it is a long way down without the extra landing. Here is the underside of the steps so far:
And here, at the end of day two, are the steps from above:
I think that once the diamond plate steps are cleaned and oiled that they will will have a nice Industrial Bling quality and a stunningly simple design:
The next day, Aramis and I fabricated and installed the remaining seven steps. Cynthia tested the staircase, acting out my favorite scene from Gone With The Wind: And Jabo, who doesn’t have much experience with stairs, tried them out, too. He caught on quickly and had a ball running up and down the stairs:
Here are his antics in video:
Later, after Aramis had left for the day, I spent an hour cutting the foam panels to their new elevation:
Here are the stairs from the top. My plan for the stairs is to wire brush them (using the angle grinder) clean them, then heat them somewhat with a torch and apply boiled linseed oil, then buff off the excess oil. I think that this will give a real nice gun-metal finish. The stairs may need retreating a couple times per year, but there won’t be paint to scratch, or paint to hide the beautiful steel patina:
The next photo shows the foam panel wall from the living room side. The handrail will be hidden just below the top of the wall. We chose to enclose the stairs behind the foam panels so that people will be surprised when they go around the corner and see the unexpected style of the stairs for the first time. The wall also provides more space for hanging art in the living room:
I worked out the height of all the steps and marked the elevations on the container wall. We used the laser level to transfer the marks on the wall to each individual step as we worked our way down to the bottom step. Here are my calculations, mostly in centimeters:
And if you want to make a similar flight of stairs, remember to bring money for cutting disks, two-to-three dollars each: